Dressing the Apple
  • Home
  • About
  • Contact
  • Blog

From the Core

Mimi G Pattern: S8177 Pants

5/13/2019

0 Comments

 
Front of pattern envelope.
Graded yoke pieces.
My dog likes to stand on fabric...
These wide-leg woven pants were the reason I purchased S8177. They are high-waisted, and with Mimi G, I knew there would be room for my ample rear. Otoh, there's a yoke, and a zipper, and my figure, and...
Modifications
This pattern overwhelmingly won a "do this next" survey, providing me the needed push to overcome my anxieties about its details. First modification was moving the zipper to the side, as my belly just does NOT need anything extra on the front of it. Belt carriers were left off, as these are to be pajamas. The final adjustment was grading from size 26 at the waist to 28 at the hip. My measurements supported this move, and I wanted all the help I could get in defining my waist! 

Prep Work
I watched Mimi G's tutorial beforehand. While I consider myself an intermediate sewer, I know there are gaps in my knowledge, and it's best to be humble when approaching fabric. She advised watching her "basics" video, so I did that, and improved my layout/cut technique: 
  • Using hardware store washers for weights is much faster than pinning. While I didn't have washers to use this time, I did use a lot fewer pins!
  • Keep the lower part of your scissors level and flat on the table. This made a big difference in keeping the pattern in place and cuts accurate. 
  • A best practice I always follow is ironing the pattern pieces and fabric before doing layout.
  • If you're feeling intimidated, get the right equipment. After many years of sewing, I finally bought a disappearing marker and an invisible zipper foot. Both speeded things up a LOT!
Watching the tutorial for the S8177 pants was also quite informative, and I felt it made the sewing assembly of the pants go more quickly. Fabric is clearanced quilting cotton w/ladybugs & clover: perfect for this test run, and pajamas.
Front view
Back view
Side view
I did the staystitching, darts and pleats as directed, and then assembled the main section of the pants (the legs), leaving the whole outer left leg seam open. Next I put together the yoke, again leaving the left side open. This made it easy to match up and sew the yoke to the legs. The invisible zipper came next, and it will get its very own post, as it was my first one ever! The result was good, and like Mimi G, I prefer the zipper goes all the way to the top of the garment, avoiding the need for a hook and eye. The video did not show seam finishing, and I happen to like French seams. Tidy and sturdy, so that is what I used on the long leg seams. A bit of hemming (I opted for a deep hem, rather than the cuff shown), and I was done. Perfect fit! 
Awesome and Not (Love is Complicated)
This pattern is love. It is everything I'd expected: fits my waist and rear end, and has lovely wide legs. That said, as you can see from the "side view" above, it is not particularly flattering to my belly - at least not from the side. What to do?
  • Wear them anyway. They turned out so well that I threw on a belt and wore them to work.
  • Try pairing with an on-trend puffy-sleeve shirt to add shoulder volume (this can help make waist appear indented).
  • Widen legs a bit more. It's a proportions game, and making the bottom wider can help whittle the middle.
  • Add pockets. Maybe. The lack of pockets is not a dealbreaker for me, and I like the sleeker look without them. On the other paw...POCKETS!
I will be making more of this pattern - in bold prints, too! The high waist feels good, and I've got Ankara fabric just waiting. That said, I would not call this the most Apple-friendly garment shape. It does really show the belly from the side. Make a conscious choice on this one.
0 Comments



Leave a Reply.

    Author

    Opinionated, tea-drinking Apple with aspirations of sewing the perfect wardrobe.

    Archives

    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019

    Categories

    All
    Knits
    Pattern Reviews
    Wovens

    RSS Feed

Proudly powered by Weebly
  • Home
  • About
  • Contact
  • Blog