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From the Core

Vogue 9112 Tunic ("Dress")

6/10/2019

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After a tragic disappointment with another pattern, I needed something to pick me up. This asymmetrical pattern was exactly the thing. No two pieces are alike, and there are interesting curves and a forgiving silhouette. It's a 3D puzzle in fabric. An easy one, if you take it step-by-step.
Modifications
  • ​Reviewers suggested making the collar a double layer, and I agree that it produces a more polished look. With no interfacing, if you pleat both pieces separately, you still get a nice scrunchy look, and comfortable feel.
  • Another suggestion was using self-bias tape for the armholes, rather than the suggested facing.
  • Road not taken: I did NOT lengthen this "dress". Doing so would be a Herculean task, given the irregular pattern pieces. It is definitely a well-above-knee garment, and I am very unlikely to wear it without leggings. Envelope says dress. I say tunic.  Caveat sewist.
Fabric
Studying the envelope and online reviews, I wasn't thrilled by this tunic made in stripes. Nor with the seams outlined in piping. Mixing colors didn't speak to me either, which surprised me a bit. What did appeal, was fabric that appeared to have texture - and you can see both examples on the envelope have this appearance. I did see some attractive plaid versions, and will keep that under consideration for future makes.
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For this initial effort, a beautiful piece of Ankara was chosen from my stash. Its pattern is vaguely tie-dye, with mock-croc elements, and even (if you look closely) some floral and geometric shapes. This fabric reminds me of exotic walls with numerous layers of paint washes. It's a fabric that makes me happy. It's also cotton, and I'm leaning towards natural fibers these days, and the purchase supports an African-American woman-owned small business. What is this amazing resource?  AnkaraMalkia.com

Assembly
  • The directions specify using a tailors ham and steam-pressing to set the pleats in the tightest curves. I'm not sure I executed these perfectly, but the result looked good, so...
  • Each time I completed a seam, I immediately finished and trimmed the edge. With all the unusual lines, this was much more efficient than leaving it all until the end. Before finishing the armholes, I tried the tunic on, and trimmed about 1/2" from the top of the armholes, which I think visually emphasizes the oversized (splendiferous!) collar. 
  • For assessing the armholes, I put the inside-out tunic on my body double dress form. This let me also study the effect of taking in the back or side seams. I'd read some reviews where this had been done, and judicious fitting is often flattering. This time, I left the tunic as-is. 
  • My neck is not as long as the models' on the envelope. I'm happy with the collar, but if you want it shorter, you could trim the pattern from the top. Or deepen the pleats. 

Awesome
This tunic in this fabric. Ankara is a substantial fabric, and I really like the short "tent dress" appearance. In fact, I might consider using the bust-up portion of this pattern for a tent maxi dress. It will definitely be made again. Possibly in other fabric weights as well as Ankara.

In the interest of total honesty, this is not a garment that makes me look smaller. It does however, fill me with joy and glee, and I like that.

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It might not hurt to add a small bust dart...and that's the one additional tweak I'd consider, looking at my photos. I adored this pattern, and was happy sewing the beautiful fabric, and the unusual pieces kept me feeling as if I was doing a puzzle. This tunic makes my "Me Uniform" list. A fun sew, with distinctive, excellent results...definitely recommend!
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    Opinionated, tea-drinking Apple with aspirations of sewing the perfect wardrobe.

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